converting away from a direct drive.....

[davidbuzz]

Hi All,

I'm in the market for a PSRU, a bigger prop ( three blade adjustable, estimate 70"), and possibly a new keel if my prop won't fit. ( it's a straight-through right now, but a small drop keel is easy) - Iain's the one for the aluminium, I'm told, but the PSRA and the prop are what I'm after. ......   

My research says that I can get:

A new prop from Rob Patroney for $1500(ish)

or a similar warp prop  from the states for around  $1300ish:
 3-blade 70" Prop with Standard blades and HPL or HP hub will cost $785US,
plus UPS or U.S. Mail Priority shipping + aluminum crush/face plate to fit your bolt pattern, $85US (3/8" thick)+ nickel leading edges for $60US per blade  = 1050US + approx 150shipping  which at current exchange rates is 1,306.58 AUD   ( and this price includes nickel leading edges )


A brand-new PSRU will all fittings to just bolt direct to an EA81 ( from airtrikes.net  via  suzi auto services  - http://www.suziauto.com/aeroservices/aero1.html   ) is  $2950AU ( inc gst and shipping to brissy) .
A rotax 'C' box or similar would be an equivalent suitable PSRU, but would probably not come with an adaptor plate ( I can fabricate) .


So, I guess I'm looking for people in AU who have this sort of gear out there that might suit,  and what $$ they want for it?

Buzz.

[Murray Barker]

Buzz.  My advice is not to go down the path of modifying that particular machine.

By the time you change a hundred and one things to make it work you will be left with a high thrustline dangerous  Gyro.  By the time you drop the keel an amount anywhere near acceptable you will have no rearward tilt angle.

The option I would suggest use the components of that frame and build a new frame to suit.

[davidbuzz]

Murray:   I'm looking to change the minimum necessary at a time.   I have enough room for a 59" prop on the direct drive as-is, and once the gearbox is added it will raise the thrust-line by approx 4" ,  meaning a 67" prop will theoretically fit with no chassis changes.   If I replace the nasty horizontal (round)  frame member ( with a proper square one) , and in so doing add a drop-keel , it will only have to drop it 2-3inches to fit a decent 70" prop.  This is my current idea/plan.  There is bundles of room there to fit this 3" drop, without much other chassis re-work.          If that goes smoothly, then I'll be redoing the vertical frame and control rods and raising the head as a second step toward what you recommend ( increased prop/rotor clearance, essentirely a totally new frame then, and higher head ).     I'm just aiming to do it in bite sized chunks I can handle.

[Baz]

Buzz,
If you put a rotax box on with a 2.62 :1 reduction you probably want to be able to swing a 76" prop I would be reckoning.

[Murray Barker]

Buzz.
 You are adding another 4 inches to an already high thrustline gyro.

 

 
 

[Mark Horan]

Commissar Barker gives good advice.

The hundred little changes are a pain in the harse, Twenty different people will tell you 90 different things you should do and every time you take off for ther first month you will be scared that there is some thing not quite right.

if it was me, I would have a good look at a gyro that flies well, copy the frame and put all my bits onto it. Ive done it the other way and I spent a long long time in the shed and not much time in the air. I have a couple of dead gyros in the shed.

I ended up buying "The fabled Roscoe tandem" and I now fly any day, afternoon or hour I want, my days of trying to rejigg crappy gyros are over, Id rather fly.

Mark

[Chopper Reid]

I agree with Mark & Murray, you can spend not only a lot of time but also a lot of money for a gyro that's when finished, is still not worth much more than before you start the makeover.

I know everyone is different but fiddling & re placing isn't for me and the thing I love about my old Rosco is that it can sit in the shed for a month or so, you wheel it out, check the oil, water & fuel and the thing is ready to do whatever you throw at it and thats really important to me where its a work tool !!

[pegaso]

Hi All,

I'm in the market for a PSRU, a bigger prop ( three blade adjustable, estimate 70"), and possibly a new keel if my prop won't fit. ( it's a straight-through right now, but a small drop keel is easy) - Iain's the one for the aluminium, I'm told, but the PSRA and the prop are what I'm after. ......   

My research says that I can get:

A new prop from Rob Patroney for $1500(ish)

or a similar warp prop  from the states for around  $1300ish:
 3-blade 70" Prop with Standard blades and HPL or HP hub will cost $785US,
plus UPS or U.S. Mail Priority shipping + aluminum crush/face plate to fit your bolt pattern, $85US (3/8" thick)+ nickel leading edges for $60US per blade  = 1050US + approx 150shipping  which at current exchange rates is 1,306.58 AUD   ( and this price includes nickel leading edges )


A brand-new PSRU will all fittings to just bolt direct to an EA81 ( from airtrikes.net  via  suzi auto services  - http://www.suziauto.com/aeroservices/aero1.html   ) is  $2950AU ( inc gst and shipping to brissy) .
A rotax 'C' box or similar would be an equivalent suitable PSRU, but would probably not come with an adaptor plate ( I can fabricate) .


So, I guess I'm looking for people in AU who have this sort of gear out there that might suit,  and what $$ they want for it?

Buzz.

PSRU SPG-3C (160hp) direct to an EA81 and made from ML25 Heat Treated to T5, (unlike the SPG2 some shaft are two pieces welded together) all gears made in one piece of 40cr. A$D 1800 + shipping.

PSRU AutoF C1 direct to an EA81 and made from ML25 Heat Treated to T5, and all gears made in one piece of 40cr A$D 2400.+ shipping


for more info leave message .

[davidbuzz]

Buzz.  My advice is not to go down the path of modifying that particular machine.

By the time you change a hundred and one things to make it work you will be left with a high thrustline dangerous  Gyro.  By the time you drop the keel an amount anywhere near acceptable you will have no rearward tilt angle.

The option I would suggest use the components of that frame and build a new frame to suit.

Murray, assuming I do what you propose, and build a "new frame to suit", please describe your view of what this would look like?   
I'm just curious, because I'm thinking that the resulting machine from the idea you have in-mind for a "new frame" is essentially the same as what I have in mind. 
I think it's a cup half full vs a  cup half empty kinda approach we have here, so I honestly want to know what you think are the key indicators of a good frame?     
The whole thrust-line issue you raised doesn't  seem to me to be a serious problem at this point, as I can just raise (or lower, unlikely) the position of the pilot and seat-tank an appropriate amount to manage the thrust-line.    That's just a single seat bracket I can fabricate myself, much simpler to source and modify than a PSRU and prop.   Infact I think the entire frame is a trivial element to change compared to sourcing/purchasing the engine and psru, which are the "core elements" around which a properly aligned frame/chassis would then be based.   

[davidbuzz]

Hi All,
As a follow-up, I have purchased ( subject to delivery of course)  a 72" warp prop, and a factory-zero-timed NSI gearbox.  I'm also in the throws of arranging enough 6061-T2 chassis aluminium for a new chassis as the underpinnings of a "proper machine" ( like Murray wanted ).   I'll be keeping the EA81, the dials, 90% of the control mechanisms, the whole head and rotors, and whatever else I can.     

Anyone got a decent ( and light ) front-wheel / steering assembly to Suit a fairly standard bensen layout?   

Mine's currently a billy-cart steered one, and neither me nor my TA really likes it.   :-)   

 I can probably fabricate one, but something tried-and-tested would save me the hassle.

Buzz.

[Murray Barker]

Buzz. I have plenty of plans you can use to build any component you need.

With that size prop you will need to a "tallish" gyro to get the thrustline right.

[davidbuzz]

Hey Murry, since you mentioned it, do any of your plans give details on fabricated front-wheel assemblies?    If so, Can you email me about it?